California lawmakers recently approved legislation to prohibit “forever chemicals” in cookware and other products, a decision that has not been universally welcomed. A collective of celebrity chefs—some of whom market or endorse nonstick pots and pans containing the now-banned chemicals—are seeking to prevent the law from taking effect.
This new legislation specifically targets per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), which are found in items such as cookware, cleaning supplies, dental floss, ski wax, food packaging, and certain children’s products. The California legislature gave the bill overwhelming approval, and it will now proceed to the governor’s desk.
These synthetic chemicals are known as “forever” chemicals because they represent some of the most persistent classes of compounds ever created, according to Scott Belcher, a professor of environmental toxicology and director of North Carolina State’s Oceans and Human Health Center.
“PFAS are highly fluorinated, purely synthetic chemicals, and possess a chemistry that was nonexistent on the planet until the period toward the end of World War II. This unique characteristic is partly why they are so challenging to break down and remove,” Belcher explained to TIME. “At this juncture, they are truly ubiquitous globally.”
Belcher, who has conducted extensive research on PFAS, stated that the California legislation constitutes “much-needed regulation” and aligns with ongoing efforts to phase out and ban these chemicals.
However, a group of renowned chefs, some of whom boast their own cookware lines, is aiming to block the new legislation. Rachael Ray, David Chang of New York City’s Momofuku, and Thomas Keller from California’s celebrated French Laundry restaurant, each dispatched letters to the legislature, urging a reconsideration of the law due to its inclusion of a ban on polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), the substance responsible for making cookware nonstick.
One such letter stated, “I respect and share the desire to protect Californians and our planet, but I urge you to look closely at the science before moving forward with legislation that could unintentionally do more harm than good. PTFEs, when manufactured and used responsibly, are proven to be safe and effective.”
These statements from the chefs were compiled and disseminated by The Cookware Sustainability Alliance, an organization established by two of the world’s largest cookware manufacturers, Groupe SEB and Meyer. The group’s website argues that the ban would lead to increased cookware costs and describes the new law as “a misguided proposal that would ban essential, safe, FDA-approved nonstick cookware made with the same compounds found in life-saving medical devices, such as pacemakers.” Many of the letters also contended that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) authorizes PTFE and other fluoropolymers for food-related uses.
Ray has her own product line, while Chang offers nonstick frying pans and woks in collaboration with Meyer. Keller’s collection is also produced by Hestan.
Critics argue that the materials used to impart nonstick properties to pans can still become toxic when heated to high temperatures, and that non-stick-coated cookware may also release substances to consumers.
“It’s actually the components that are leaching out of the polymer that are used in the manufacturing process,” Belcher noted, adding that manufacturing byproducts can contaminate the environment.
The chefs have also drawn online criticism from environmental activists, including actor Mark Ruffalo, who specifically used X (formerly Twitter) to call out Ray for her opposition to the bill.
“Rachel, I share your commitment to making people confident in the kitchen,” Ruffalo posted. “Getting toxic chemicals like PFAS out of your cookware is just as important as choosing the right recipe.”
Public health officials have progressively raised concerns about “forever chemicals” in recent years. These chemicals exist in 12,000 forms and are employed for various purposes, including making cookware non-stick, enhancing stain resistance in clothes and carpets, and making food packaging repel grease, among other applications. Data indicates that nearly all Americans have detectable levels of PFAS in their blood.
According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), PFAS toxicology has been linked to various health issues including decreased fertility, high blood pressure in pregnant individuals, developmental delays in children, an increased risk of certain cancers, hormone disruption, and a reduced vaccine response. Nevertheless, the CDC reports that since 2002, the use of PFAS in the U.S. has declined, leading to a corresponding decrease in some blood PFAS levels.